cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/57346437

They are not european-made but are made in Pakistan in fair working conditions. Their whole supply chain is fully traceable and use FSC-certified sustainable rubber, Fairtrade certified organic cotton or recycled PU leather. Additionally, part of the sale of each pair goes to an independently managed fund that provides healthcare, pensions and education to the workers and their families.

They are rated GREAT on goodonyou.eco

I've own maybe half a dozen pairs over the years, they are a great alternative to Converse or Vans skate shoes and offer original models too. The stitched-soles models are decently durable, the vulc models don't last as long but they are supremely comfortable.

I finally took the time to move my gaming rig to Bazzite because I don't boot it that often, and because I don't want to spend half the little time I have for gaming doing updates and maintenance.

Most of my games are on an ext4-formatted secondary drive. Note: They worked perfectly on Manjaro and Nobara, the previous distros I used on this machine.

They are recognized by Steam, I can install and uninstall games just fine, it's just that... they don't launch. At all. Native or Proton. Like if I was on an exFAT partition. The "Launching" button switches back to "Play" almost instantly. If I move a game to my main home partition, it launches fine.

Has anyone encountered this issue before?

Where/how could I get detailed logs to try and pinpoint the issue?

Thanks!

Edit: Solved! The issue was with fstab configuration, always specify exec AFTER users, despite the doc telling you that order doesn't matter ;)

Wrong fstab entry :

`UUID=blah-blah-blah /my/mount/point ext4 def

Basically, title. It started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes it happens right away and freezes the whole DE, more often it happens after scrolling for a while. I know nothing about .js so let me know how I could help diagnose it.

I'm using phtn.app, Firefox 133, Wayland, Fedora 41.

Thanks!

I live in a super hard water region. So hard in fact that it destroys every appliance despite regular descaling. I've remineralized 5l jugs of demineralized water for years but I feel it's not very sustainable in the long term. Plus demineralized water is not supposed to be safe for human consumption.

I'm looking for an affordable RO system that removes most if not all TDS so I can remineralize it using my favorite recipe.

Do you use any? What are your thoughts? Thanks !

I was lucky to spend 4 beautiful years with a Creality Ender 3 v2 that I modded to the brim and never failed to deliver quality prints. I never had to adjust, calibrate or tweak anything regarding print quality.

I upgraded today to a Sovol SV-08 because despite its qualities, the Ender 3 is too small and slow for my current needs.

However, the print quality is definitely not there (yet). Overhang quality is bad but I think I may be able to tweak it with filament temp and/or cooling. There's a bit of ringing but I can live with it. My main issues are the large holes in the hull.

Filament: Overture black PETG, 240°C, 24min print.

What should I try?

Thanks

Edit: most issues were solved by doing the following adjustments:

• PETG temperature increased to 245
• volumetric flow reduced from 17mm^{3/s to 10mm}3/s
• manually adjusting z-offset with the paper sheet method like on my old Ender3

There are still minor issues like overhang drooping and adhesion needs a bit more work but

Has anybody attempted to fix an USB-C connector?

Solved: It's used by members and/or supporters of Les Soulèvements de la Terre, a French radical ecologist movement disbanded by Macron's right-wing government.

You're about to take your first steps in the wonderful world of Linux, but you're overwhelmed by the amount of choices? Welcome to this (I hope) very simple guide :)

The aim of this guide is to provide simple, clear information to ease your transition as a beginner. This is not a be-all-end-all guide nor an advanced guide. Because there is a lot of info and explanations everywhere, I will often (over-)simplify so as to keep the information accessible and digestible. Please refrain from asking to add your favorite distro/DE in the comments, I feel there is too much choice already ;)

Preamble

Make sure your hardware is compatible

Nowadays most relatively recent hardware works perfectly fine on Linux, but there are some edge cases still. If you don't use niche hardware and your wifi card is supported, chances are you're golden. Please note that nVidia is a bad faith player in the Linux world, so if you have a GeForce GPU, expect some trouble.

Mak

After spending so much time and energy with an entry-level home coffee roaster, here are my takeways

Can it make great coffee?

Absolutely! My preference gravitates towards light roasts or lighter medium roasts. Although the Gene is not very good at light roasts, lighter medium roasts are easily achievable. The coffee you can roast at home may never be as good as what the best artisan roasters can produce, but it will always be 1000x better than commodity supermarket charcoal you can buy everywhere (and cheaper too).

Is it a good machine?

Yes and no.

• It's easy to use because, apart from time, there is really just a single variable you can influence: maximum temperature. With a decent workflow you can produce excellent coffee, but it lacks everything people obsess about (temperature probes and Artisan integration, airflow control, power control, automation etc.) that makes a high-end home roaster much closer to a professional tool.
• Ambient temperature (and I suspect humidity

I recently had the urge to get a fun, colorful summer watch. But I can't justify the expense of even a beautiful, beautiful Tsuyosa right now, so I built my own for less than 70€ :D

Built around a Seiko/SII NH35, all parts (case, bracelet, dial, hands) sourced from Aliexpress. Fit and finish are OK (I'd say a bit below pre-reboot Seiko 5), but these are very cheap parts anyway.

I "branded" the dial by experimenting with toner transfer. It looks like shit up close, but at wrist-length, it's fine.

I silenced the cheap-ass, rattly-as-fuck bracelet by thoroughly soaking it in bike chain grease.

Wrist shot: https://i.imgur.com/iIiJCwW.jpg

I've watched a lot of resources about toner transfer over the last few days, and while everything was quite experimental and empirical, the main gist was : heat + pressure = toner transfer. As I didn't want to, for obvious reasons, cook a dial full of unknown glues, paints and metals in the family's kitchen oven, I started experimenting with my printer's bed.

So I made a janky setup. I printed my design mirrored on a laser-compatible transparency sheet, cut it to size, secured it on a sterile dial with a bit of Kapton and cut a bit of rubber to try and spread pressure evenly. I then clamped the contraption to my printer's heated bed.

Advantages: It's basically free if you already have a laser printer, transparencies and a 3d printer laying around.

Inconvenients: It looks absolutely unprofessional up close. At regular wrist distance, it's fine.

My first attempt was 30 minutes at 100°C. Way too much heat and/or pressure, the printing was smooshed and uneven pressure meant that pa

The SV08 is marketed as a mass-produced Voron 2.4, with a much lower price and a very quick setup. They even say they donate a small amount to the Voron project for each sale.

Has anyone here bought/tested it? What are your thoughts about it?

Are there some limitations/downsides compared to a Voron?

Is it possible to upgrade it Voron-style (Stealthburner, enclosure etc)?

A very minimalist theme, based on the amazing work of https://draculatheme.com/

Red/orange: {"other":{"black":"#23252e","white":"#f8f8f2"},"primary":{"100":"#ff5555","900":"#ffb86c"},"zinc":{"50":"#f8f8f2","100":"#f8f8f2","200":"#ffb86c","300":"#f8f8f2","400":"#f8f8f2","500":"#ffb86c","700":"#23252e","800":"#23252e","900":"#23252e","925":"#282a36","950":"#282a36"},"slate":{}}

Orange/yellow: {"other":{"black":"#23252e","white":"#f8f8f2"},"primary":{"100":"#ffb86c","900":"#f1fa8c"},"zinc":{"50":"#f8f8f2","100":"#f8f8f2","200":"#f1fa8c","300":"#f8f8f2","400":"#f8f8f2","500":"#f1fa8c","700":"#23252e","800":"#23252e","900":"#23252e","925":"#282a36","950":"#282a36"},"slate":{}}

Green/Yellow: {"other":{"black":"#23252e","white":"#f8f8f2"},"primary":{"100":"#50fa7b","900":"#f1fa8c"},"zinc":{"50":"#f8f8f2","100":"#f8f8f2","200":"#f1fa8c","300":"#f8f8f2","400":"#f8f8f2","500":"#f1fa8c","700":"#23252e","800":"#23252e","900":"#23252e","925":"#282a36","950":"#282a36"},"slate":{}}

Purp

These days I'm experimenting with tibicos as an (almost) non-alcoholic, low carb yet still festive alternative to beer with a very fast turn around. I usually tend to brew quite strong beers in the Belgian tradition (8-12%) because these are my favorite styles, so not getting smashed while still enjoying a tasty drink is always nice.

I was wondering if any of you have ever tried brewing beer with it. The composition of tibicos grains is suspiciously similar to a lot of sour beer cultures (mostly various strains of S. Cervisae, lactobacillus and acetobacter). I was thinking something along the lines of a Berliner Weisse or some light gueuze/lambic.

My favourite theme for Atom/Pulsar by colortom, now available for Photon ;)

{"other":{"black":"#292929","white":"#bfabab"},"primary":{"100":"#db9243","900":"#428a58"},"zinc":{"100":"#6e9ba8","200":"#d3294e","300":"#bfabab","400":"#bfabab","500":"#85af4e","700":"#2c2e33","800":"#2c2e33","900":"#242424","925":"#292929","950":"#292929"},"slate":{}}

Edit: Fixed secondary accent color.

As there is no documentation (yet), I've done this by trial and error, feel free to tell me if stuff doesn't behave correctly :D

Based on the amazing color scheme by Ethan Schoonover: https://ethanschoonover.com/solarized/

{"other":{"white":"#fdf6e3","black":"#002b36"},"primary":{"100":"#859900","900":"#2aa198"},"zinc":{"50":"#eee8d5","100":"#eee8d5","200":"#d33682","300":"#eee8d5","400":"#eee8d5","500":"#2aa198","600":"#93a1a1","700":"#657b83","800":"#0b3f4d","900":"#073642","925":"#002b36","950":"#002b36"},"slate":{"25":"#fdf6e3","50":"#fdf6e3","100":"#eee8d5","200":"#eee8d5","300":"#eee8d5","400":"#2aa198","500":"#268bd2","600":"#0b3f4d","700":"#0b3f4d","800":"#0b3f4d","900":"#002b36","950":"#002b36"}}

For future reference, here's what I've gathered so far:

Slate (LIGHT)

• 25: Central window background
• 50: Global background
• 100: instance, background hover left bar, pictures background
• 200: outlines
• 300: buttons bottom outline
• 400: ???
• 500: instance
• 600: sideb

I've been diagnosed by my former therapist but I feel things are getting worse these days.

I mean, I have my vape in my hand, and one second later it's nowhere to be found. Maybe it's in the bedroom where I swear I haven't been in the last 5 hours. Maybe in a bathroom cabinet. Maybe on the table but I wouldn't tell because my fuckin brain is incapable to discern any object in the middle of clutter.

Is there a strategy to remember where I've put something I was holding? It's gotten to the point that I'm getting preemptively mad when something I'm looking for is not where it's supposed to be because I know I'll have to turn the flat upside down just to find it, just to lose it again a few minutes later and/or do the same song and dance for the next thing I need.

cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/20255211

I'm sur a lot of you have seen this video from James Hoffmann discussing the massive differences observed when spritzing some water on the beans before grinding.

So I took the plunge and bought a spray bottle, and tested it immediately on my mildly-disappointing, home-roasted medium-light Yrgacheffe in my Mythos-modded DF64.

Of course I don't have a particle analyzer to replicate the results, but I can still count on my senses to see if there is an actual difference between dry and spritzed beans.

The beans were dialed-in at 18g in, 45g out, 30s when dry.

Then, the 3s-spritz beans went in. I didn't see much difference when grinding (maybe a bit less retention), but when pulling the shot, wow. It started to drip much later and slower, and took around 42s to complete the shot. There was a bit of spraying so channeling may still be happening though. The taste was incredible

I'm sur a lot of you have seen this video from James Hoffmann discussing the massive differences observed when spritzing some water on the beans before grinding.

So I took the plunge and bought a spray bottle, and tested it immediately on my mildly-disappointing, home-roasted medium-light Yrgacheffe in my Mythos-modded DF64.

Of course I don't have a particle analyzer to replicate the results, but I can still count on my senses to see if there is an actual difference between dry and spritzed beans.

The beans were dialed-in at 18g in, 45g out, 30s when dry.

Then, the 3-spritz beans went in. I didn't see much difference when grinding (maybe a bit less retention), but when pulling the shot, wow. It started to drip much later and slower, and took around 42s to complete the shot. There was a bit of spraying so channeling may still be happening though. The taste was incredible compared to the baseline. Every flavor was turned up to 11, with m