A place to share ideas, knowledge and creations with textiles. The focus is on reducing waste, whether that be sewing from the scraps left from other projects, using the end of rolls and remnants, or repairing and remaking finished pieces.
I almost always end up with jeans with holes in the bottom of the front pockets, because I wear a lot of stuff in my pockets all the time. The pockets give up way before the jeans themselves, but I don't want to stop wearing a perfectly fine pair of jeans, just because the pockets have given up, so I need to fix them.
In the past I have fixed the issue by folding the pockets above where the holes are, and then sewing across, so as to create a new bottom of the pocket. However, this means I lose pocket volume, which is not what I want.
So, I've been looking at iron on patches for fixing denim, and thinking that might do the trick. I have no experience with iron on patches in general, so wanted to ask if anyone has experience with these?
Are they easy to apply?
Do they last, both in terms of their ability to stay put where they were applied, and to wear?
Thanks for sharing any experience you've had with iron on patches for this purpose.
I buy most of my clothes second hand, the quality is much better for the price but when I look for something precise, too replace something wear out for example, rather than a new piece for my wardrobe, it take me a lot of time to find what I look for. Meanwhile, fast fashion brand sells lots of clothing that seems exactly what I need except that the quality is fast fashion quality :(
Is there any general advices you have to improve bad quality clothing?
Here is two specific examples that really disturb my shopping experience:
T-shirt that have not T, because the cloth piece under the arm has been removed. The t-shirt looks fine, folded or wear with your arms lying against your body but as soon a you raise them, in a T, or high to reach some high shelf, the whole t-shirt raises with them
Long sleeves than a just long enough to keep your arms lying against your body. If you go for a crazy move, like using your hand, you hand up with almost 3/4 sleeves.
Not sure if this is the right place but I've been looking to buy a sewing machine recently and haven't really been sure about what to get or what to look out for.
Does anyone have any recommendations? I've used some before, but never owned one. Don't know what a good budget might be but I'm happy to spend a couple hundred if need be? Some googling seems to show that to be reasonable, but I'm not sure if I'm getting ripped off (on either quality or price).
My first attempt doesn’t look as nice, since I was trying to sew down the last loops of the warp one at a time instead of taking them all off the hooks at once and then sewing them down.
I think this one turned out alright, though! I just used some variegated craft thread that looked about the same size as pearl thread, but was cheaper and came in a variety pack.
And a replacement button with a similar color scheme :)
At some point I also wanna get some mini patches to go where there's currently the little embroidered polo player. The theme is lavender lemonade, so a little lavender and a little lemon would be cute :)
I'd love some advice on repairing or replacing this bamboo cup lid, which has lasted around 5 years otherwise!
I've thought about doing a kintsugi type repair, since I still have the broken pieces:
However, most kintsugi kits I've seen for sale online are either pretty expensive or not meant to be in contact with food. I'm cautious about using a cheaper epoxy for that reason as well -- I'm not sure how concerned I should be about chemicals leaching into my coffee even after it's cured.
Maybe I should just look for a replacement lid online? This one is about 9.5cm across, but I'm not sure they come in standard sizes
I was recently looking at old posts in this community, and it reminded me that it's been over a year since I repaired these two backpacks and made a few posts about the process.
Both of these have held up remarkable well in a year of near daily use. Some of the shoe-goo sealant is starting to detach in places:
But most of it is still in place. The fabric patches and sewing line I used to close the rips are also still in one piece:
The shoe goo is still in a drawer somewhere, so I may apply a fre
This video made me think of this community. Fixing a camping chair and stool with Tyvek is pretty inventive, as well as sewing a tent with the material!
Hello! I have a sling bag that I really like, but the strap doesn't take it as close to my body as I would like. I have a sewing machine, but I have never used it for stitching seatbelt webbing. What sort of needle would I need to use, and which type of thread would be best suited for the material?
Despite trying different fits and brands of pants, I keep running into the problem of them eventually getting holes in them, typically around the seams of the crotch where of course you least want them. The rest of the pants are generally fine, so it feels like a waste to toss them, but I'm not sure how well one might be able to fix such holes right along seams...
I have this nice heavy winter coat that I accidentally tore a small hole in the shell near a chest pocket. It's a tiny rip, but I don't want it to get any larger. Any advice for how I should go about repairing it? I want to try a visible mend instead of a simple patch. The tag says the shell is listed as 61% cotton 39% nylon.
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I bought this machine from the 1960s (cost: 12 Big Macs). I did not clean it or oil it as I wanted to just see if it works.
It made a straight line without issue. Then on the 2nd straight line the top thread got bundled below the plate. I cleared that & started over. Then went to the narrowest zig-zag setting and the needle broke.
I’m just starting to learn. I know from videos that pushing the fabric while the needle is down can bend the needle and put it in harms way. I don’t think I was pushing or pulling the fabric when the needle broke. So I wonder what would cause this-- does this mean the timing is off and needs adjustment?
I’m not enthusiastic about doing much experimentation at this point because needles seem pricey enough that I don’t want to break many (1¼ the cost of a Big Mac in my area buys 5 ne
I watched several sewing videos in preparation to buy a machine. The consensus is that drop-in bobbins are easier for beginners than front-load. Well I’m the kind of person who wants to get to the /expert/ stage & if that means doing things the hard way, so be it. But then the question is, what are the advantages of front-loads?
Youtube video id rbhfilt68vI titled “TESTED Best Sewing Machines for Beginners” suggests that front-load bobbins are more likely to get tangled and jammed. That sounds like an anti-feature for both beginners and experienced users. So why do front-load bobbin designs even exist?
(edit)
I think I got my answer. Video F7GTjrc-m5w says front-loading enables the machine to go faster and also enables you to switch bobbins mid-task.
I care more about jamming than speed. But the mid-task swapping sounds useful because I don’t suppose you can predict when it will run out. So I guess I need to consider how much stock to put into the comment about jamming.