This is where we discuss how to repair appliances, large and small. We are not waiting for #right2repair law to be enacted. The civil disobedient practice of repairing instead of wasting and re-buying is welcome here. I will also turn a blind eye toward “piracy” of manufacturer service manuals that are otherwise unavailable to the general public.
The DVD player wouldn't start, I opened it and here it is. How do you call this composant (1009) ? Do you think it fried because the fuse fried first? How do you even change this type of thing?
A washing machine is trapped in a fault state even though all the components function (AFAICT). The controller board has two ports:
ISP (to attach an ISP programmer to flash new software)
USART (4-pin serial port: 0v, TX, RX, 5v)
I’m guessing the ISP port is useless without whatever proprietary software is needed. But what can the USART do for me? Can that be used to obtain the error code and clear it, or reset the board to the factory state? Has anyone done that, without documentation?
My washing machine had the same symptoms as this one, which is the same make but different model. It suggests a bad tacho. I need more certainty before buying parts.
The state worsened. Now I just get a non-stop continuous blinking LED with all flashes evenly spaced (thus no error code).
Someone told me the advice on this page is sketchy. IIUC, that page says to hand-spin the motor while the tacho is connected to an ohms meter. I get very little variation. If I give it a spin as fast as I can, it goes from 52 Ω to 52.8 Ω.. or 53 Ω on one occasion. Someone said it’s wrong or bad to put current through an ohms meter. So is that a bad test?