B41 stable has been out for ages with multiplayer support. It's the current version and what you get if you don't opt in to experiential builds.
On unstable builds, the devs remove multiplayer initially until they think it's good enough. B42 unstable is in active development and just recently added multiplayer support.
B42 is still a bug-ridden crapshoot though, stick with 41 if you want to play online.
Aye it's on the list to try & potentially swap out when time allows. Probably over the holidays - no work until the new year after the 23rd, so no excuse really :)
It's fine, did the job for me at the time. Just wanted the ad and nasty blocking. Keeping it and the filters up to date is easy.
Now have a pfSense box with pfBlocker-NG, which does essentially the same thing. Also runs Snort as an additional layer, and makes penning in IoT stuff possible.
Innr kit has been great here, and recently affordable. The bulbs are little workhorses and have required exactly no extra attention since first connection, even across a house move.
Setup is ZHA/Conbee II. Old now but still all smiles.
As suggested by others, this will be wired back to a bigger box somewhere in the building. Any monitoring devices like door contacts will also be wired back there. Look for any references to the installer - it may still be under a monitoring & maintenance contract.
If no contract or out of contract, look up some manuals for this series and try getting into engineer mode. I think the default with these is 4110 800 iirc. If you can get engineer, you can put in new user codes for... using your system. It's likely the engineer code has been changed though.
So break in. Most boxes are equipped with a tamper switch, so it is likely to scream if you remove the cover. If you decide to do so, switch off the mains supply first. Then remove the cover and immediately disconnect the battery to kill it.
From here, ID the unit and find the installer or engineer manual. The user manual is useless at this stage. Familiarise yourself with it.
When you are ready to play, pop the battery back on, restore power and then go immediately back to the keypad to press * and # together. This should reset the engineer code to the above, but retain the rest of the current programming.
These are old systems and a lot of this is from memory, so YMMV.
Alternatively, get the codes off the previous owner or replace it with something new. This one could be over 20 years old; vistas started in the 90s.
I printed special little stilts to raise one of our tables the 10mm extra it needed to be able to go under without getting wedged. It still tries fornicating with the cat tree - a different problem to solve.
Never lost it's ass though, one to look out for there.
Same setup here, with two little Lenovo boxes. HA gets one all to itself.
The hardware doesn't completely go to waste though. It's handling all the cameras so having all the CPU, RAM & storage immediately to hand for expansion is great. No need to pass through peripherals either - just plug em in. If it goes to shit, putting a display and keyboard on it is no problem.
It would definitely be a size thing for adding Ethernet (PoE or otherwise) to small boards like these. The ones I am using are already bigger than they ought to be - the bottom half is just a glorified serial interface and power input for USB. The esp plugs into this through pin/header. If I were less lazy, they could be about half the thickness in a final product. No PoE I suppose also keeps them cheap, which is always good for me. The casings were my first 'proper' design and entry into resin printing.
The Tapo kit I have found to be a good balance of price, features and quality. I have a Tapo C310 mounted outdoors at another building, which has done great in all weathers. Initial setup does require the app/service last time I checked, but it can be made to serve RTSP locally after that. Very good for the ~£30 price point.
A shell I designed myself in SketchUp (skp download). Note that's not the final version, as I lost some design files.
And the finished item:
All assembled, they will give a decent enough feed to frigate for the basics. Just don't expect miracles in the resolution or framerate departments. 3fps does fine for my use case of tracking critters.
For hardware, anything that can provide a local rtsp stream is a good place to start. I run cheap and cheerful mix of tapo, unbranded and homebrew esp32 cams. Offload the motion/object detection and alerts to something that can pull in the feeds, and isolate the cams to local network only.
WiFi usually ok, but at least hardwire the power to save future grief.
Using frigate to manage mine, which is running under Homeassistant - another project worth looking up.
Eighty quid for a light up button in an oversized housing, backed by a basic radio and relay plugged extension cord. Jfc.
The whole underlying thing bar the critter friendly button could be picked up for less than 20. 3D printing is so ubiquitous that the missing parts/modifications would be pennies on top, with a little CAD work.
The concept is great but the inevitable Chinese clone will be hot on its heels at a fraction of the cost if the demand is there. At the core of it, there is nothing new here and it's very easy to copy.
I'd mind what it controls, especially anything that heats or moves.
Take a look at the entry for apples though. The header (generally safe) contradicts the potential risks (toxic to cats, no further explanation). Just needs the notes on stem/seeds/leaves put in there I guess.
They are between builds.
B41 stable has been out for ages with multiplayer support. It's the current version and what you get if you don't opt in to experiential builds.
On unstable builds, the devs remove multiplayer initially until they think it's good enough. B42 unstable is in active development and just recently added multiplayer support.
B42 is still a bug-ridden crapshoot though, stick with 41 if you want to play online.